Monday, March 28, 2011

My friend Somu

Our apartment building has maybe fifty flats. Fully three-quarters of them house Indian families who moved here from America. The most common story goes like this: the husband came to the US in his early twenties for graduate school (business or engineering) and ended up staying between six and twelve years, building his career (and salary history) in the land of dollar-denominated wages. When the young man was established in his career (and, often, also after he had become a US citizen), he sent out a marriage beacon. Because the matchmaking network is the only efficient piece of infrastructure in India, a suitable girl was located within a few months, and on one of the young man's measly two-week American vacations, he came home and got married. The wife accompanied him back to the US (for more on this experience from the wife's point of view, read Jhumpa Lahiri's The Namesake), where their children were born. Please note that this is not a generalization; I can name at least three families who fit this description.



Most of these families come to India on temporary assignments with multinational corporations (MNCs). There are a hundred reasons why they do this, but I'll mention some of the most important: living near extended family; exposing their children to their cultural roots; the opportunity "save like a VP" (ie, to draw an American salary but pay Indian living expenses). The catch with an expat assignment is that it is by definition temporary. If you want to stay here longer than your assignment, the MNC will happily "localize" your salary to the prevailing rate, a cut of at least 50%, and probably more. For most of these families, temporary is fine. One family we know is planning to return to the US when their eldest son reaches high school, because they know he will have a better chance of getting into a top American university that way.

Here's where my friend Somu's story leaves the standard script. Somu came to the US in the mid-eighties to pursue a PhD in computer science at Rutgers. Like many young engineers, he could not resist the call of industry and left Rutgers before finishing his dissertation. Over the next two decades he founded a number of companies, including one that provides software to local elections bureaus. He did return home to get married, and his wife grew to love their suburban American life. He told me that by the time his two daughters were born in the mid-2000s, he could have retired. He had paid off his house, and his companies were so well established that he could basically coast for the rest of his life.

But he didn't want to do that. To mark his twenty-second year in the US, he made a list of 22 reasons to leave America. One was that Americans have forgotten how to eat. Any place where they sell ice cream and shrimp by the bucket has a serious problem. A direct quote: "People don't eat out of buckets--animals eat our of buckets." Yes, but most Americans don't know how animals eat. Every Indian knows what a cow is like--how she eats, moves, relieves herself. Even city dwellers see farm animals on a daily basis. In America we think it is civilized to be separated from the beasts of the field. In fact, the separation makes us less civilized. Certainly with respect to our eating habits.

The real reason Somu moved his family back to India is what you might call duty. The Indians call it "dharma," or the proper way to live. Somu has made it his goal in life never to retire, and he has chosen his hometown, Hyderabad, as the venue for his restlessness. He says he could not imagine wasting his talents, his experience, his expertise, and sitting at home all day. On a much smaller scale, he reminds me of Bill Gates, who must have had a similar realization. Like Gates, Somu decided not to retire, only to change venues. Of course, Somu isn't wealthy enough to take on issues like world poverty or polio or malaria, but he has created at least 25 jobs in his hometown--jobs that did not exist when he left India in 1986, and would not exist if he had not returned 22 years later.

Last week I visited his office to give an English lesson to his staff. We spent an hour working on opposite pairs ("Are you fat?" "No, I am thin." / "Are you hot?" "No, I am cold.") and simple conversation skills.


Somu's new company is only a couple of years old, but it is expanding by leaps and
bounds. The focus is transactional mail--brokerage statements, phone bills, and so forth, which is a huge market opportunity in India, where Internet usage is low and "e-bills" are not an option. I get the feeling it's not the technical challenge that gets Somu out of bed every morning. And it is certainly not the money. Instead, it's the feeling that he is doing right by his countrymen and countrywomen. And also, as he is fond of telling me, "India is just more fun."


Thursday, March 17, 2011

Holi

Querido clase,

Hoy fui a un festival de Holi!!! Yo estoy rosado porque poní un polvo en mi cuerpo para Holi!!! A mí me gusta Holi mucho. En Holi hay un tambor y hace musica y todos bailan y ponen polvo en todos. Para Holi tengo que ponerme ropa que no me gusta para que la ropa se ensucia.

Quieres ver mi foto? Estas dos niñas son hermanas y son mis amigas.




En Domingo voy a ir a otra fiesta de Holi. En esa fiesta de Holi vamos a ponernos agua. No aguacates--agua. No polvo--agua. Es muy divertido. También tiramos sempasúchil. Eso es un flor. A mí me gusta Holi. Y tú?

Violeta


Sunday, March 13, 2011

Lassitude:

The way you feel when you wake up feeling anything but refreshed (under a pink mosquito net, under a high velocity ceiling fan).
Sloth caused by 95 degree days, un-airconditioned grocery stores, and poorly behaved Indian children.
Bad attitude caused by any of the following conditions:
-school without recess and kids who don't mind their own business (Violet's words)
-no end to sexual repression and gender discrimination (my words)
-fat men in speedos who try to foil your efforts to get in the pool because you haven't showered and aren't wearing a proper swim cap, (but really it's because you are wearing an immodest one-piece bathing suit that reveals your upper thighs and actually know how to swim) (my words again!)
-trying to find a ride home because the trains have been burned because of political unrest
-trying to procure a Kingfisher beer on a Friday night but good luck because either the restaurant you are in doesn't have a liquor license or there is a city-wide alcohol drought ALL WEEKEND LONG because of political unrest.
-your coconut walla is trying to not charge you 12 Rps. for a coconut, when you know damn well that the going rate is 10 Rps, because that's what you've been paying him all along.

Luckily for us...Tea fights lassitude!

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Goa!

We are just back from Goa, where I attended a three-day Fulbright conference and Jessica and Violet attended the Arabian Sea. Goa is India's smallest state, and also one of its youngest. The territory was controlled by Portugal for nearly four hundred years before the Indian army finally annexed it in 1961. There are not many Portuguese speakers left, but the population is still overwhelmingly Catholic. Our arrival happened to coincide with Carnival, the annual pre-Lent celebration. Here are some photos from the Carnival parade. To get the real experience, cue up some Latin-infused techno and place the speakers approximately six inches from your ears.



No celebration of carnality would be complete without a condom van.


I'm including this shot so you can see how easy it is to make a postcard.


My recollection is hazy, but this guy may have been the driver of the condom van.


There was a beautiful (and relatively trash-free) public park along the sea wall in Panaji, the town where we stayed. The park was named for the statue of Buddha at the center but included a number of secular amusements, for example this algae-choked paddleboat canal.


My muse in the paddleboat photo is the Bollywood hero Salman Khan, who is currently starring in a flick about a corrupt South Indian cop. I am also practicing his dance moves. Take a look:



The park was packed with Goan schoolchildren. Note the nun.


How many kids can you get on a slide? (Answer: fifteen.)



Finally the beach. This was taken at Morghim, a quiet spot in North Goa. The water was so warm we could have wallowed in it all day. Imagine North Carolina in August, minus the hurricanes and jellyfish.



Some of these beaches are breeding grounds for sea turtles. We did not see any reptiles, but we did see (children cover your ears) a number of European women in bikinis. Yes, the two-piece bathing suit is a rare sight in India, but leave it to a charter-plane full of sun-scalded Russians to introduce the thong to the land of "debangg"--and also, in some instances, to remind everyone present that humans are indeed mammals.

What a prude I have become! Just a few short months in India and I am ranting about beachside immodesty. I am afraid that if we stay too long we may return to the USA unrecognizable. I'll give you one example of how much we've changed. We were watching clips from the Oscars telecast the other day on our computer and saw that Natalie Portman was visibly pregnant, yammering on about "her love" (e.g., her baby daddy) and "the greatest role of her life" (being a mom). Jess and I were kind of shocked that an unmarried woman would go on TV in front of millions of impressionable young girls and say these things. We weren't quite sure how to articulate our objection, because we support premarital sex and, um, babies. Thankfully Mike Huckabee (of all people) did it for us:

There aren’t really a lot of single moms out there who are making millions of dollars every year for being in a movie... Most single moms are very poor, uneducated, can’t get a job, and if it weren’t for government assistance, their kids would be starving."

Go ahead and jerk your knee. Then admit the guy has a point.